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Contemporary American

MORSEL: MI TOCAYA ANTOJERÍA (May 2025)

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Mi Tocaya is of that rare caliber: the kind of place whose work, on both sides of the hedonistic/intellectual spectrum, I find impossible to shake.

Posted on June 13, 2025June 13, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: ELSKE (May 2025)

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Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?

Posted on May 30, 2025May 30, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (April 2025)

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At the risk of repeating what has recently (and rather convincingly) been said, I must write this piece…

Posted on May 15, 2025May 15, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: ENEMY at WARLORD (April 2025)

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Enemy formed the entry point through which I could finally get to know what Warlord was doing…

Posted on May 1, 2025May 2, 2025 5 Comments

MORSEL: NEXT at CHARLIE TROTTER’S (February 2025)

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If Next has done anything well, it has been to demonstrate that there is an appetite for more of Charlie Trotter. Through this residency, the restaurant has also affirmed that effectively imitating this old master is anything but a foregone conclusion.

Posted on February 21, 2025February 21, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: JOHN’S FOOD AND WINE TASTING MENU (February 2025)

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John’s Food and Wine took its time building a foundation that could reliably support a tasting menu rather than going all-in, from the start, in pursuit of glory. The slow, steady, and sustainable route has yielded something spectacular.

Posted on February 14, 2025February 15, 2025 1 Comment

MORSEL: OBÉLIX (February 2025)

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After more than five years and 1,000,000 words published, it is time for a change in format…

Posted on February 7, 2025May 16, 2025 No Comments

Understanding SMYTH: 2023-2024

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For those open to its charms, Smyth remains the signature, most singular restaurant of its generation. The third Michelin star only confirms its spot in Chicago’s pantheon.

Posted on January 24, 2025January 25, 2025 1 Comment

Understanding FELD

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An investigation of Feld: one of the Chicago dining scene’s most engaging (whether you find yourself enamored or averse) culinary expressions to date.

Posted on September 5, 2024September 11, 2024 1 Comment

Understanding VALHALLA “2.0”

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Without any novelty factor from the food hall setting to help round its rough edges, Valhalla “2.0” must deliver across every dimension: reflecting the lessons learned and dreams dreamt during the prior iteration…

Posted on July 18, 2024July 18, 2024 9 Comments

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