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TIDBIT: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (June 2025)

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If Cellar Door surprises and delights me as it did back in April, I can only affirm that the concept is doing something really special…

Posted on July 2, 2025July 2, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (June 2025)

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The arrival of summer marks one of the most interesting chapters in Kyōten’s yearly work…

Posted on June 26, 2025June 26, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: ENEMY at WARLORD (May 2025)

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I was so impressed by my first meal at Enemy that I knew I had to rush back…

Posted on June 20, 2025June 20, 2025 2 Comments

MORSEL: MI TOCAYA ANTOJERÍA (May 2025)

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Mi Tocaya is of that rare caliber: the kind of place whose work, on both sides of the hedonistic/intellectual spectrum, I find impossible to shake.

Posted on June 13, 2025June 13, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: ELSKE (May 2025)

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Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?

Posted on May 30, 2025May 30, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (May 2025)

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Another month, another visit to Chicago’s idiosyncratic temple of omakase…

Posted on May 20, 2025May 20, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (April 2025)

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At the risk of repeating what has recently (and rather convincingly) been said, I must write this piece…

Posted on May 15, 2025July 1, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: ENEMY at WARLORD (April 2025)

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Enemy formed the entry point through which I could finally get to know what Warlord was doing…

Posted on May 1, 2025May 2, 2025 5 Comments

MORSEL: SUGAR SHACK at LE BOUCHON (March 2025)

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I have learned over many years and many tasting menus to be suspicious of any meal that seems like “too much of a good thing.”

Posted on April 19, 2025April 19, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (March 2025)

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How does the menu here change month to month? How does the perception of quality and value, when one no longer approaches Phan’s work with the romanticism of a “special occasion” splurge, change with it?

Posted on April 15, 2025April 15, 2025 No Comments

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