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TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (May 2025)

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Another month, another visit to Chicago’s idiosyncratic temple of omakase…

Posted on May 20, 2025May 20, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (April 2025)

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At the risk of repeating what has recently (and rather convincingly) been said, I must write this piece…

Posted on May 15, 2025May 15, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: ENEMY at WARLORD (April 2025)

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Enemy formed the entry point through which I could finally get to know what Warlord was doing…

Posted on May 1, 2025May 2, 2025 5 Comments

MORSEL: SUGAR SHACK at LE BOUCHON (March 2025)

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I have learned over many years and many tasting menus to be suspicious of any meal that seems like “too much of a good thing.”

Posted on April 19, 2025April 19, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (March 2025)

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How does the menu here change month to month? How does the perception of quality and value, when one no longer approaches Phan’s work with the romanticism of a “special occasion” splurge, change with it?

Posted on April 15, 2025April 15, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: TASTING MENU at KUMIKO (March 2025)

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Kumiko is another one of those places (like Obélix) that feels so familiar it can be hard to write about critically. At the same time, it is a place that remains so uncompromising in its vision it can sometimes perplex and polarize segments of its audience.

Posted on April 10, 2025April 10, 2025 1 Comment

MORSEL: ZARELLA PIZZERIA & TAVERNA (March 2025)

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After spending some time discussing PIZZ’AMICI, it seems serendipitous that I can sample, compare, and contrast the same product from some of Chicago’s most interminable restaurateurs.

Posted on March 31, 2025March 31, 2025 2 Comments

MORSEL: TACO OMAKASE at MARISCOS SAN PEDRO (March 2025)

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Mariscos San Pedro’s “Taco Omakase” is not just a relocation of what Chingón did before, but an expansion and evolution of the same idea: a crown jewel offering within a bustling restaurant that, indeed, may be looking to win Bibendum’s favor once more.

Posted on March 26, 2025March 26, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: PIZZ’AMICI (March 2025)

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As much as I have enjoyed my visits here, any temptation to label PIZZ’AMICI “the best” in its craft really runs contrary to what makes the restaurant exceptional.

Posted on March 14, 2025March 14, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: KYŌTEN (February 2025)

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Kyōten has nothing left to prove, yet it remains a mystery for many Chicagoans who have misgivings about a pricey restaurant missing Michelin’s endorsement. What is this “chef of the year” up to at the moment?

Posted on February 28, 2025May 16, 2025 No Comments

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