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MORSEL: SUGAR SHACK at LE BOUCHON (March 2025)

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I have learned over many years and many tasting menus to be suspicious of any meal that seems like “too much of a good thing.”

Posted on April 19, 2025April 19, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: NEXT at CHARLIE TROTTER’S (February 2025)

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If Next has done anything well, it has been to demonstrate that there is an appetite for more of Charlie Trotter. Through this residency, the restaurant has also affirmed that effectively imitating this old master is anything but a foregone conclusion.

Posted on February 21, 2025February 21, 2025 No Comments

Understanding THATTU

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Thattu is an interesting neighborhood place that is not ready for the big time. It is arguably not even ready for the small time, and you wonder when—if ever—the restaurant will live up to a reputation that almost seemed predetermined before opening.

Posted on December 29, 2023December 29, 2023 1 Comment

Understanding JINSEI MOTTO

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Jinsei Motto forms a valuable addition to Chicago’s sushi scene. It is the approachable, irreverent entry point to the genre, and one that—with such a clear, undeluded sense of self—you find rather refreshing.

Posted on June 16, 2023June 16, 2023 2 Comments

Understanding CLAUDIA

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CLAUDIA offers Chicago’s newest tasting menu, and, at $185 for a 10-course menu, the restaurant is clearly competing with “big dogs” like Smyth and Acadia.

Posted on October 31, 2019May 5, 2022 2 Comments
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