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Dessert

CRUMB: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (January 2026)

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On those nights when intention, ingredients, and execution align, the team here is capable of crafting one of Chicago’s finest culinary experiences…

Posted on February 17, 2026February 17, 2026 No Comments

TIDBIT: SMYTH (January 2026)

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Smyth—driven by larger circumstances—has taken a new direction before, and it seems poised to do so again.

Posted on January 23, 2026February 11, 2026 No Comments

TIDBIT: ORIOLE (November 2025)

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By and large, I enjoyed what I tasted at Oriole back in September. Two months later, where do things stand?

Posted on January 9, 2026January 9, 2026 2 Comments

MORSEL: VALHALLA (August 2025)

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More than a year after my last visit to Valhalla, I now ask: was I right to have faith, or did I jump the gun?

Posted on September 18, 2025September 18, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: MAXWELLS TRADING (August 2025)

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It might be best to think of this experience as the “B-side” of Maxwells Trading…

Posted on August 19, 2025August 19, 2025 4 Comments

MORSEL: MAXWELLS TRADING (June 2025)

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With Maxwells Trading’s popularity at a peak, my present format seems well-suited to writing some kind of evaluation…

Posted on July 18, 2025July 18, 2025 1 Comment

MORSEL: TACO OMAKASE at MARISCOS SAN PEDRO (March 2025)

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Mariscos San Pedro’s “Taco Omakase” is not just a relocation of what Chingón did before, but an expansion and evolution of the same idea: a crown jewel offering within a bustling restaurant that, indeed, may be looking to win Bibendum’s favor once more.

Posted on March 26, 2025March 26, 2025 No Comments

Understanding VALHALLA “2.0”

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Without any novelty factor from the food hall setting to help round its rough edges, Valhalla “2.0” must deliver across every dimension: reflecting the lessons learned and dreams dreamt during the prior iteration…

Posted on July 18, 2024July 18, 2024 9 Comments

Understanding VALHALLA

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Valhalla confirms Gillanders’s status as one of Chicago’s most talented chefs, yet the restaurant still only represents a half step in his journey…

Posted on January 20, 2023April 3, 2025 8 Comments

Understanding VIRTUE

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There can be little question of the buoyant spirit Erick Williams has imbued his restaurant (and the wider community) with, but the nature of Virtue’s execution—and its ability to successfully extend that hospitality more broadly—stand ripe for analysis.

Posted on September 2, 2022September 2, 2022 9 Comments

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