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MORSEL: SUGAR SHACK at LE BOUCHON (March 2025)

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I have learned over many years and many tasting menus to be suspicious of any meal that seems like “too much of a good thing.”

Posted on April 19, 2025April 19, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: NEXT at CHARLIE TROTTER’S (February 2025)

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If Next has done anything well, it has been to demonstrate that there is an appetite for more of Charlie Trotter. Through this residency, the restaurant has also affirmed that effectively imitating this old master is anything but a foregone conclusion.

Posted on February 21, 2025February 21, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: OBÉLIX (February 2025)

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After more than five years and 1,000,000 words published, it is time for a change in format…

Posted on February 7, 2025May 16, 2025 No Comments

A History of Chicago Fine Dining

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From the archives: An Exploration of Ethnic Identity and the Persistence of “Prairie” Cuisine

Posted on September 28, 2021May 5, 2022 8 Comments

Understanding SMYTH

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You cannot say you have eaten at Le Francais or Charlie Trotter’s in their prime, but you feel no fear in saying Smyth is the greatest restaurant Chicago has ever seen. And, by all accounts, the Shieldses are only getting started.

Posted on March 13, 2021May 5, 2022 10 Comments

Understanding TZUCO

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Sure, Galit has gotten plenty of positive press, Cabra’s Peruvian fare is fantastic, and Gaijin promises to shift the paradigm for Japanese food in the city, but Tzuco stands as Chicago’s hottest opening of the year…

Posted on November 26, 2019May 5, 2022 8 Comments
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