Three visits hardly seem like enough to come to any definitive conclusion, yet they represent a starting point in evaluating a place that is already at the pinnacle (however shakily) of our dining scene…
Bread
One of the recurring themes I engage with in these shorter pieces is that of the “neighborhood restaurant”…
If Cellar Door surprises and delights me as it did back in April, I can only affirm that the concept is doing something really special…
Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?
At the risk of repeating what has recently (and rather convincingly) been said, I must write this piece…
After a brief interlude, you now take aim at another concept that has comfortably reached maturity…
Bavette’s Bar & Boeuf excels in Chicago’s crowded steakhouse scene by consciously subverting so many of the nasty tropes that have plagued this genre of restaurants nationwide. There is little glitz and even less glamour…