With Maxwells Trading’s popularity at a peak, my present format seems well-suited to writing some kind of evaluation…
Category Archive: Morsels
Mi Tocaya is of that rare caliber: the kind of place whose work, on both sides of the hedonistic/intellectual spectrum, I find impossible to shake.
Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?
At the risk of repeating what has recently (and rather convincingly) been said, I must write this piece…
Enemy formed the entry point through which I could finally get to know what Warlord was doing…
I have learned over many years and many tasting menus to be suspicious of any meal that seems like “too much of a good thing.”
Kumiko is another one of those places (like Obélix) that feels so familiar it can be hard to write about critically. At the same time, it is a place that remains so uncompromising in its vision it can sometimes perplex and polarize segments of its audience.
After spending some time discussing PIZZ’AMICI, it seems serendipitous that I can sample, compare, and contrast the same product from some of Chicago’s most interminable restaurateurs.
Mariscos San Pedro’s “Taco Omakase” is not just a relocation of what Chingón did before, but an expansion and evolution of the same idea: a crown jewel offering within a bustling restaurant that, indeed, may be looking to win Bibendum’s favor once more.
As much as I have enjoyed my visits here, any temptation to label PIZZ’AMICI “the best” in its craft really runs contrary to what makes the restaurant exceptional.