Kumiko is another one of those places (like Obélix) that feels so familiar it can be hard to write about critically. At the same time, it is a place that remains so uncompromising in its vision it can sometimes perplex and polarize segments of its audience.
Category Archive: Morsels
After spending some time discussing PIZZ’AMICI, it seems serendipitous that I can sample, compare, and contrast the same product from some of Chicago’s most interminable restaurateurs.
Mariscos San Pedro’s “Taco Omakase” is not just a relocation of what Chingón did before, but an expansion and evolution of the same idea: a crown jewel offering within a bustling restaurant that, indeed, may be looking to win Bibendum’s favor once more.
As much as I have enjoyed my visits here, any temptation to label PIZZ’AMICI “the best” in its craft really runs contrary to what makes the restaurant exceptional.
Kyōten has nothing left to prove, yet it remains a mystery for many Chicagoans who have misgivings about a pricey restaurant missing Michelin’s endorsement. What is this “chef of the year” up to at the moment?
If Next has done anything well, it has been to demonstrate that there is an appetite for more of Charlie Trotter. Through this residency, the restaurant has also affirmed that effectively imitating this old master is anything but a foregone conclusion.
John’s Food and Wine took its time building a foundation that could reliably support a tasting menu rather than going all-in, from the start, in pursuit of glory. The slow, steady, and sustainable route has yielded something spectacular.
After more than five years and 1,000,000 words published, it is time for a change in format…