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MORSEL: CREEPIES (September 2025)

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Creepies, nearly two months in, doesn’t need to be perfect so long as the team preserves its capacity to dream…

Posted on October 11, 2025October 11, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (August 2025)

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Three visits hardly seem like enough to come to any definitive conclusion, yet they represent a starting point in evaluating a place that is already at the pinnacle (however shakily) of our dining scene…

Posted on September 11, 2025September 11, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: INDIENNE (August 2025)

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Indienne is one of few Michelin-starred restaurants in Chicago I have yet to write about…

Posted on August 29, 2025August 29, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: MAXWELLS TRADING (August 2025)

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It might be best to think of this experience as the “B-side” of Maxwells Trading…

Posted on August 19, 2025August 19, 2025 4 Comments

MORSEL: TABLE, DONKEY and STICK (July 2025)

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One of the recurring themes I engage with in these shorter pieces is that of the “neighborhood restaurant”…

Posted on August 12, 2025August 12, 2025 1 Comment

TIDBIT: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (June 2025)

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If Cellar Door surprises and delights me as it did back in April, I can only affirm that the concept is doing something really special…

Posted on July 2, 2025July 2, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: ELSKE (May 2025)

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Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?

Posted on May 30, 2025May 30, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (April 2025)

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At the risk of repeating what has recently (and rather convincingly) been said, I must write this piece…

Posted on May 15, 2025July 1, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: SUGAR SHACK at LE BOUCHON (March 2025)

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I have learned over many years and many tasting menus to be suspicious of any meal that seems like “too much of a good thing.”

Posted on April 19, 2025April 19, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: KYŌTEN (February 2025)

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Kyōten has nothing left to prove, yet it remains a mystery for many Chicagoans who have misgivings about a pricey restaurant missing Michelin’s endorsement. What is this “chef of the year” up to at the moment?

Posted on February 28, 2025May 16, 2025 No Comments

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