With the arrival of October, Otto Phan’s omakase inches closer to what might be considered its conventional peak…
Fine Dining
Here, in September, I can finally say that Kyōten has undergone a major change…
Since writing about Oriole “2.0” in February of 2022, I’ve visited the restaurant another 13 times…
Indienne is one of few Michelin-starred restaurants in Chicago I have yet to write about…
Can lightning strike twice? Can the team at Warlord totally reinvent its tasting menu without losing what made those first two meals so special?
I was so impressed by my first meal at Enemy that I knew I had to rush back…
Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?
Another month, another visit to Chicago’s idiosyncratic temple of omakase…
How does the menu here change month to month? How does the perception of quality and value, when one no longer approaches Phan’s work with the romanticism of a “special occasion” splurge, change with it?
If Next has done anything well, it has been to demonstrate that there is an appetite for more of Charlie Trotter. Through this residency, the restaurant has also affirmed that effectively imitating this old master is anything but a foregone conclusion.