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Fine Dining

MORSEL: INDIENNE (August 2025)

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Indienne is one of few Michelin-starred restaurants in Chicago I have yet to write about…

Posted on August 29, 2025August 29, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: ENEMY at WARLORD (June 2025)

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Can lightning strike twice? Can the team at Warlord totally reinvent its tasting menu without losing what made those first two meals so special?

Posted on July 9, 2025July 9, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: ENEMY at WARLORD (May 2025)

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I was so impressed by my first meal at Enemy that I knew I had to rush back…

Posted on June 20, 2025June 20, 2025 2 Comments

MORSEL: ELSKE (May 2025)

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Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?

Posted on May 30, 2025May 30, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (May 2025)

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Another month, another visit to Chicago’s idiosyncratic temple of omakase…

Posted on May 20, 2025May 20, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (March 2025)

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How does the menu here change month to month? How does the perception of quality and value, when one no longer approaches Phan’s work with the romanticism of a “special occasion” splurge, change with it?

Posted on April 15, 2025April 15, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: NEXT at CHARLIE TROTTER’S (February 2025)

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If Next has done anything well, it has been to demonstrate that there is an appetite for more of Charlie Trotter. Through this residency, the restaurant has also affirmed that effectively imitating this old master is anything but a foregone conclusion.

Posted on February 21, 2025February 21, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: JOHN’S FOOD AND WINE TASTING MENU (February 2025)

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John’s Food and Wine took its time building a foundation that could reliably support a tasting menu rather than going all-in, from the start, in pursuit of glory. The slow, steady, and sustainable route has yielded something spectacular.

Posted on February 14, 2025February 15, 2025 1 Comment

MORSEL: OBÉLIX (February 2025)

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After more than five years and 1,000,000 words published, it is time for a change in format…

Posted on February 7, 2025May 16, 2025 No Comments

Understanding SMYTH: 2023-2024

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For those open to its charms, Smyth remains the signature, most singular restaurant of its generation. The third Michelin star only confirms its spot in Chicago’s pantheon.

Posted on January 24, 2025January 25, 2025 4 Comments

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