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Contemporary American

MORSEL: VALHALLA (August 2025)

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More than a year after my last visit to Valhalla, I now ask: was I right to have faith, or did I jump the gun?

Posted on September 18, 2025September 18, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (August 2025)

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Three visits hardly seem like enough to come to any definitive conclusion, yet they represent a starting point in evaluating a place that is already at the pinnacle (however shakily) of our dining scene…

Posted on September 11, 2025September 11, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: MAXWELLS TRADING (August 2025)

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It might be best to think of this experience as the “B-side” of Maxwells Trading…

Posted on August 19, 2025August 19, 2025 4 Comments

MORSEL: NIC + JUNIOR’S (July 2025)

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With Nic + Junior’s listing among the hottest restaurants in Chicago, it would appear the concept is finally ready for primetime…

Posted on August 1, 2025August 1, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: MAXWELLS TRADING (June 2025)

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With Maxwells Trading’s popularity at a peak, my present format seems well-suited to writing some kind of evaluation…

Posted on July 18, 2025July 18, 2025 1 Comment

TIDBIT: ENEMY at WARLORD (June 2025)

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Can lightning strike twice? Can the team at Warlord totally reinvent its tasting menu without losing what made those first two meals so special?

Posted on July 9, 2025July 9, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (June 2025)

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If Cellar Door surprises and delights me as it did back in April, I can only affirm that the concept is doing something really special…

Posted on July 2, 2025July 2, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: ENEMY at WARLORD (May 2025)

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I was so impressed by my first meal at Enemy that I knew I had to rush back…

Posted on June 20, 2025June 20, 2025 2 Comments

MORSEL: MI TOCAYA ANTOJERÍA (May 2025)

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Mi Tocaya is of that rare caliber: the kind of place whose work, on both sides of the hedonistic/intellectual spectrum, I find impossible to shake.

Posted on June 13, 2025June 13, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: ELSKE (May 2025)

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Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?

Posted on May 30, 2025May 30, 2025 No Comments

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