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MORSEL: TABLE, DONKEY and STICK (July 2025)

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One of the recurring themes I engage with in these shorter pieces is that of the “neighborhood restaurant”…

Posted on August 12, 2025August 12, 2025 1 Comment

MORSEL: NIC + JUNIOR’S (July 2025)

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With Nic + Junior’s listing among the hottest restaurants in Chicago, it would appear the concept is finally ready for primetime…

Posted on August 1, 2025August 1, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (July 2025)

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With the arrival of the year’s hottest month, omakase starts to sound particularly enticing…

Posted on July 24, 2025July 24, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: MAXWELLS TRADING (June 2025)

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With Maxwells Trading’s popularity at a peak, my present format seems well-suited to writing some kind of evaluation…

Posted on July 18, 2025July 18, 2025 1 Comment

TIDBIT: ENEMY at WARLORD (June 2025)

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Can lightning strike twice? Can the team at Warlord totally reinvent its tasting menu without losing what made those first two meals so special?

Posted on July 9, 2025July 9, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: CELLAR DOOR PROVISIONS (June 2025)

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If Cellar Door surprises and delights me as it did back in April, I can only affirm that the concept is doing something really special…

Posted on July 2, 2025July 2, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: KYŌTEN (June 2025)

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The arrival of summer marks one of the most interesting chapters in Kyōten’s yearly work…

Posted on June 26, 2025June 26, 2025 No Comments

TIDBIT: ENEMY at WARLORD (May 2025)

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I was so impressed by my first meal at Enemy that I knew I had to rush back…

Posted on June 20, 2025June 20, 2025 2 Comments

MORSEL: MI TOCAYA ANTOJERÍA (May 2025)

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Mi Tocaya is of that rare caliber: the kind of place whose work, on both sides of the hedonistic/intellectual spectrum, I find impossible to shake.

Posted on June 13, 2025June 13, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: ELSKE (May 2025)

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Does Elske live up to the lofty status I have assigned it in my imagination?

Posted on May 30, 2025May 30, 2025 No Comments

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