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Author: Grimod

MORSEL: ZARELLA PIZZERIA & TAVERNA (March 2025)

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After spending some time discussing PIZZ’AMICI, it seems serendipitous that I can sample, compare, and contrast the same product from some of Chicago’s most interminable restaurateurs.

Posted on March 31, 2025March 31, 2025 2 Comments

MORSEL: TACO OMAKASE at MARISCOS SAN PEDRO (March 2025)

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Mariscos San Pedro’s “Taco Omakase” is not just a relocation of what Chingón did before, but an expansion and evolution of the same idea: a crown jewel offering within a bustling restaurant that, indeed, may be looking to win Bibendum’s favor once more.

Posted on March 26, 2025March 26, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: PIZZ’AMICI (March 2025)

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As much as I have enjoyed my visits here, any temptation to label PIZZ’AMICI “the best” in its craft really runs contrary to what makes the restaurant exceptional.

Posted on March 14, 2025March 14, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: KYŌTEN (February 2025)

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Kyōten has nothing left to prove, yet it remains a mystery for many Chicagoans who have misgivings about a pricey restaurant missing Michelin’s endorsement. What is this “chef of the year” up to at the moment?

Posted on February 28, 2025May 16, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: NEXT at CHARLIE TROTTER’S (February 2025)

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If Next has done anything well, it has been to demonstrate that there is an appetite for more of Charlie Trotter. Through this residency, the restaurant has also affirmed that effectively imitating this old master is anything but a foregone conclusion.

Posted on February 21, 2025February 21, 2025 No Comments

MORSEL: JOHN’S FOOD AND WINE TASTING MENU (February 2025)

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John’s Food and Wine took its time building a foundation that could reliably support a tasting menu rather than going all-in, from the start, in pursuit of glory. The slow, steady, and sustainable route has yielded something spectacular.

Posted on February 14, 2025February 15, 2025 1 Comment

MORSEL: OBÉLIX (February 2025)

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After more than five years and 1,000,000 words published, it is time for a change in format…

Posted on February 7, 2025May 16, 2025 No Comments

Understanding SMYTH: 2023-2024

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For those open to its charms, Smyth remains the signature, most singular restaurant of its generation. The third Michelin star only confirms its spot in Chicago’s pantheon.

Posted on January 24, 2025January 25, 2025 4 Comments

Understanding FELD

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An investigation of Feld: one of the Chicago dining scene’s most engaging (whether you find yourself enamored or averse) culinary expressions to date.

Posted on September 5, 2024September 11, 2024 1 Comment

Understanding VALHALLA “2.0”

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Without any novelty factor from the food hall setting to help round its rough edges, Valhalla “2.0” must deliver across every dimension: reflecting the lessons learned and dreams dreamt during the prior iteration…

Posted on July 18, 2024July 18, 2024 9 Comments

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